So we met a godess yesterday. I’ve never met one before. I met the King of Malaysia once because a coal fired power station was named after him and….it’s a long story but he gave me a signed, leather bound copy of his biography in return for a Newlands Coal Mine tie. Fair swap? Anyway, he was respected (or his position was because I’m not sure he was particularly well-liked) but I’m not sure he (or even his position) was worshipped. I’ve also met a few politicians who thought they were gods. And the only other time I’ve bowed to someone (other than as described below ) was when I gave evidence in a court case and it was mandatory to bow in the general direction of the judge when entering and leaving the court. There is so much I could add to that but won’t because so many judges read this blog.
9 year old Nihira is the Kumari of Lalitpur, a city to the south of but contiguous with Kathmandu. Kumari literally means “virgin” and these young girls (there are 10 in Nepal) are annointed as goddesses from a very young age until puberty when they lose their deified status and return to civvy street. This is taken very seriously by Hindus and Bhuddists alike and deserves the utmost respect. The CB and I were both blessed by the young goddess. We were asked to kneel before her so she could bless us. I said she’d have to help me up as well as bless me, what with my dodgy hips so I bowed instead and with her tiny index finger she put a red tika in the middle of my forehead which was meant to protect me. I don’t think a similar experience can be had anywhere else. And my hips still ache.
Another 9 year old girl called Trishna is the goddess of Kathmandu. We weren’t allowed to meet her – no foreigners allowed. Apparently the Lalitpurians are more inclusive than the Kathmanduians (is that a word?). That sounds like something that might appear in Gulliver’sTravels but of course wouldn’t be allowed in our utterly ridiculous woke first (and rapidly receding) world. Thankfully the Nepalese don’t give a shit about this and some of the conversations we’ve had with the locals would have them shunned by the champagne socialists. Heavens no!!!! The things that offend our snowflakes (it’s all an act actually, IMHO) are real world problems elsewhere.
Getting around here is an interesting experience. I’ve previously mentioned the traffic lights. Today we went further afield and the lights do actually work so let’s go back into the older part of the city which is infinitely more interesting. There are two types of roads here. The new, modern ones utilising the most recent and sophisticated construction technology and materials and those dating back hundreds of years. The first type can best be described as potholes connected by thin ribbons of bitumen. The second type would make the Romans proud – solid cubes of limestone and other rock-types arranged in close formation with striations cut into each rock to aid traction. And no amount of monsoonal rain is washing these suckers away.
This place is Temples ‘R Us. They are everywhere – concentrated into clumps round squares, big and small and in the most unlikely of places, like insinuated into the trunk base of a massive tree. The Hindus, who are the dominant religious denomination and the Buddhists who are a distant second co-exist and worship shoulder to shoulder. The gnashing of teeth over religion back home in Australia, epitomised by the recent one-day tenure of the CEO of an Australian Football League club, terminated because of his religious connections, is worthy of massive disdain. If the club in question tried to recruit a CEO in Nepal (using their dubious standards), they’d have the choice of about five people, and right now, I’m one of them and the CB’s another and if they come knocking, they can stick their job where the sun doesn’t shine.
And by-the-way, this morning the weather was beautiful and I expect the mountain flights were successful and we didn’t go because the weather was expected to be like yesterday. One more chance, next Friday.
Off to Chitwan to tomorrow to see some wildlife and to try not to get malaria.