When I worked full-time for a living and
spent a large proportion of that time on the road (or in the air to be more
accurate) we used to say that the countries you least wanted to go to were the
ones that made it hardest for you to get there. For me that was Iran, Pakistan
and at least the first few times, India. The child bride and I are about to
embark on a cruise up the West African coast from Cape Town to Lisbon and
obtaining visas for the various stops is proving somewhat problematic. But
first let me recount a story in a similar vein.
Back in the day I spent an awful lot of
time in India. It wasn’t always awful, in fact it rarely was except when a
severe bout of the inevitable descended. Descended right through me in fact.
But that’s a different and not really worth revisiting, story. So on this
particular trip I was looking forward to coming home in a day or so when I got
a call from my boss. I know he’s going to read this so I’ll keep the abuse to a
minimum. If you are a regular reader of this blog you will have read the story
about when he asked me, on a Sunday night, to go to India on Monday during the
1989 pilot’s strike and I didn’t have a visa. This was a bit different – he
wanted me to go to Pakistan.
Not such a big deal you would think
because it’s next door. It is though, when your passport’s almost full. Going
back a step, I was pretty pally with the Austrade Senior Trade Commissioner who
worked out of the Australian High Commission which is next door to the Pakistan
High Commission as luck would have it. He gave me the name of the Pakistani
senior visa guy so I walked next door, told the security guys who I needed to
see and one of them escorted me to his office. That’s when I was told I needed
a full blank page in my passport (which I didn’t have) for the visa stamp (no
sharing it seemed) and the inside back cover, the bit stuck to the cardboard,
wasn’t good enough.
Back to the Aus High Commission I went
and an hour later after rushing off to find somewhere that did passport photos
I had a brand new passport in my hot little hand. It was hot because the
passport has hot – straight off the presses. So back next door I went.
On arriving back at the Pakistan HC it
seemed all of the security guys had gone to lunch and not only had they left
the gate unlocked, it was wide open. In India! So I walked in completely
unmolested. I knew where the visa guy’s office was so I walked across the
courtyard and into the building like the invisible man and knocked on the visa
guy’s door. He didn’t seem too perturbed to see me and proceeded to get my visa
stamped. Somewhat bemused I was thinking to myself that a James Bond gig would
be pretty easy if all you had to do to break into a foreign embassy was wait
until lunch-time. This was some time ago and there has been a bit of ugliness
between the two countries since then so I am sure they have beefed up security
by introducing staggered meal times.
That was that although as an epilogue to
the process, when my Pakistan Airlines flight took off it felt like we had been
fired out of an almost vertical cannon. I have only experienced similar
prolonged steepness, like sitting in the space shuttle, when flying over the
Andes from Santiago in Chile where the ground seems to be only a few hundred
feet below you for about half an hour. The relationship being what it is
between India and Pakistan I guess they wanted to get out of missile range as
quickly as possible.
I can’t remember whether all of that
aggravation was worth it. I never managed to sell a tonne of coal into Pakistan
(with that company – I did later with another) so I guess ultimately, it
wasn’t.
Back to our trip. We are visiting South
Africa, Namibia, Angola, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Gambia, the Canary Islands,
Madeira and Portugal. As with most e-applications these days you are presented
with drop down menus and limited choices. Interestingly most of these guys are
not with the multiple gender program yet because you only get two choices in
their genetically based application process. Not even three let alone the 74 listed
on most university application forms! Guess they’ve got more pressing issues.
The menu for port of entry for one country provided for three land based and
two airports. Problem. Problem has not gone away and their embassy with
responsibility for Australia which is not in Australia is, like Joe Biden, not
taking questions. And I was getting as much sense out of one of the others as
journalists get from Joe Biden’s press secretary (but she is the first black,
immigrant, lesbian press secretary, so it’s alright). I actually completed this
application before an administrator asked for our flight itinerary. After
explaining three times that we would arrive by boat so we didn’t have flight
itineraries, they eventually explained they only issued visas for entry by air.
Now I’m politely explaining to them why they need to reimburse the visa fees I
paid to complete the process (or so I thought). I could be the victim of a very
elaborate scam here.
Anyway, we’ll see what happens. We spent
three days in Russia off a cruise a while back and it was the only place in
Europe that wanted us to buy (the operative word) a visa. We got off and on the
boat numerous times without an immigration officer in sight. Maybe this trip
will be the same. Stay posted to find out.