Sorry to keep harping on about the roads because I’m apportioning no blame….but the conditions….and……and…..We thought the road between Kathmandu and Chitwan was bad. It was just an appetiser for the main course – the “road” between Chitwan and Pokhara. First of all there are more buses per square kilometre of this road than a Greyhound car park. And the potholes are big enough for a Yorkshire family (you need to be a Monty Python fan). Again, it’s rain, landslides, washouts and traffic, lots of traffic. But why, over about 75km where the road was non-existant for 100m out of every 500m, did I only see one maintenance machine operating…on a Monday. I have a theory so bear with me.
Something that is ubiquitous in all of the towns and villages we pass through is beautifully ornate and colourful houses with arches and pillars and pattern tiled walls with strawberry stripes and peppermint swirls. Obviously they were designed by the Willy Wonka of architects. They are big too and many have unfinished columns poking out of the flat roof, no doubt in preparation for construction of the next floor. The connection with the roads? I am convinced that these terrific houses are owned by those who also own the tyre franchises across the country.
And why aren’t the roads being repaired when there are dozens of idle machines parked up everywhere? Did the operators all call in sick? Did they drink too much of the home-made rice wine we sampled a couple of days ago? The one that tastes like watered down kerosene? Are the authorities proud of the roads the way they are because let’s face it, it takes diligent neglect to allow them to deteriorate to this extent. No, they are being paid to stay at home by the tyre franchisees.
Despite the conditions, somehow or other, our admirably skilled and requisitely aggressive driver Mukhand, got us here to Pokhara yesterday, thoroughly shaken up but in one slightly dishevelled piece. And as a bonus cultural experience the ladies got to experience the road-side squat conveniences. The trip wouldn’t have been legit if they hadn’t.
The CB and I are now sitting on our balcony watching the fluffies drifting around the nearby hills. We can’t see the snow-capped mountains and apart from a brief glimpse in Kathmandu a few days ago, we are yet to see what Nepal is most famous for. But maybe it’ll be today because we have booked a chopper flight to Annapurna base camp this morning and we just need those last few clouds to scud off.