If you fly often enough you’re going to encounter the occasional “moment”. I remember a work colleague telling me of a discussion he had with the company pilot many years ago. The pilot told him that flying a plane is 99% sleep inducing boredom and 1% blind panic. Those of us sitting behind the pilot, preferably behind an internal wall and even more preferably, on another level (somewhat counter-intuitively, the bigger the plane, the less likely it is to go down) hopefully don’t experience all of those moments of blind panic but occasionally we do although to be fair to pilots, what causes us passengers to white knuckle our fingerprints into the metal part of the arm rest are probably just ho hum moments to those who’ve seen it all.
So there have been times I’ve contemplated rapid religious conversion and another time I would have taken up smoking again if the no smoking sign had gone off. Let me tell you about this episode – my first brush with a melodramatic death. But first a precursor to set the scene.
The night before, I was attending an Australia-India Business Council dinner at the Australian High Commission in New Delhi. The residence is a very nice building with beautifully manicured gardens, as you would expect. The dinner was taking place under a large marquee in the garden and everything was going swimmingly until a rip roaring storm stampeded through town. These storms charge in from the nearby Rajasthan Desert so orifice clogging dust and high winds precede torrential rain. As the storm picked up steam (and everything else in its path), the guests decamped from the marquee to the residence and watched the carnage as trees were stripped of leaves and what wasn’t nailed down disappeared into the distance, including the marquee. It finished up in Pakistan. Not the country but over the wall and into the back yard of the Pakistan High Commission which was and still is, next door. Afterwards the garden looked like the Pakistanis had bombed it in retaliation for launching surface to surface missiles at them cunningly disguised as a large tent.
The next night my agent and I flew down to Madras as it was known then and is still known now, by the locals. I think only cricket commentators and politicians call it Chennai. As luck would have it (or not as the case may be), we encountered one of these storms in a most inconvenient place – a few thousand feet above the ground.
To make matters worse the plane was rather old – a 737 1 Series which was so old it didn’t have overhead lockers; it had a luggage rack. Having flown many times before and having learnt what is a normal sound or movement (and by process of elimination, what isn’t), I felt and heard the plane take off at maximum throttle in a steep climb then after a short time, ease back on the throttle and lessen the elevation as we gradually began climbing to cruising altitude. Talk about being lulled into a false sense of security because a few seconds later, the engines roared back to life and the nose went up so high I thought we were on our way to the moon.
Then it began. And it seems a little wimpy looking back but I was pretty certain this dilapidated old plane was going to disintegrate and I didn’t have a parachute. I had never to that point and probably have only one other time since, experienced such mid-air violence as the plane was thrown around the sky. And the no smoking sign was on so I couldn’t take up smoking again and my agent couldn’t get the top off his bottle of scotch lest the contents finish up all over the surrounding passengers. And as I looked out of the window I could have sworn I saw a marquee fly past in the sandy gloom. I can only assume the pilot had decided that the best plan of attack was to spear right through the middle of this storm. Going round it or under it was for cowards.
Now my then agent and still good friend is a pretty cool customer who was quite used to the privations of travel round the Indian sub-continent as well as the vagaries of the weather. When I saw the look on his face I knew we were dead. But that was not to be because after what seemed like an hour and was probably ten minutes at most we hit clear air. The rattling rivets that were still in their holes relaxed back into place, ashen faced strangers silently started at each other, the relief on their faces palpable and couples pledged to never take each other for granted ever again, ever.
That first Oranjeboom went down like altar wine when we hit the bar at the Taj Coromandel a couple of hours later. The blood pressure was back to normal after about a week.