Mid-Air Mayhem

If you fly often enough you’re going to encounter the occasional “moment”. I remember a work colleague telling me of a discussion he had with the company pilot many years ago. The pilot told him that flying a plane is 99% sleep inducing boredom and 1% blind panic. Those of us sitting behind the pilot, preferably behind an internal wall and even more preferably, on another level (somewhat counter-intuitively, the bigger the plane, the less likely it is to go down) hopefully don’t experience all of those moments of blind panic but occasionally we do although to be fair to pilots, what causes us passengers to white knuckle our fingerprints into the metal part of the arm rest are probably just ho hum moments to those who’ve seen it all.

So there have been times I’ve contemplated rapid religious conversion and another time I would have taken up smoking again if the no smoking sign had gone off. Let me tell you about this episode – my first brush with a melodramatic death. But first a precursor to set the scene.

The night before, I was attending an Australia-India Business Council dinner at the Australian High Commission in New Delhi. The residence is a very nice building with beautifully manicured gardens, as you would expect. The dinner was taking place under a large marquee in the garden and everything was going swimmingly until a rip roaring storm stampeded through town. These storms charge in from the nearby Rajasthan Desert so orifice clogging dust and high winds precede torrential rain. As the storm picked up steam (and everything else in its path), the guests decamped from the marquee to the residence and watched the carnage as trees were stripped of leaves and what wasn’t nailed down disappeared into the distance, including the marquee. It finished up in Pakistan. Not the country but over the wall and into the back yard of the Pakistan High Commission which was and still is, next door. Afterwards the garden looked like the Pakistanis had bombed it in retaliation for launching surface to surface missiles at them cunningly disguised as a large tent.

The next night my agent and I flew down to Madras as it was known then and is still known now, by the locals. I think only cricket commentators and politicians call it Chennai. As luck would have it (or not as the case may be), we encountered one of these storms in a most inconvenient place – a few thousand feet above the ground.

To make matters worse the plane was rather old – a 737 1 Series which was so old it didn’t have overhead lockers; it had a luggage rack. Having flown many times before and having learnt what is a normal sound or movement (and by process of elimination, what isn’t), I felt and heard the plane take off at maximum throttle in a steep climb then after a short time, ease back on the throttle and lessen the elevation as we gradually began climbing to cruising altitude. Talk about being lulled into a false sense of security because a few seconds later, the engines roared back to life and the nose went up so high I thought we were on our way to the moon.

Then it began. And it seems a little wimpy looking back but I was pretty certain this dilapidated old plane was going to disintegrate and I didn’t have a parachute. I had never to that point and probably have only one other time since, experienced such mid-air violence as the plane was thrown around the sky. And the no smoking sign was on so I couldn’t take up smoking again and my agent couldn’t get the top off his bottle of scotch lest the contents finish up all over the surrounding passengers. And as I looked out of the window I could have sworn I saw a marquee fly past in the sandy gloom. I can only assume the pilot had decided that the best plan of attack was to spear right through the middle of this storm. Going round it or under it was for cowards.

Now my then agent and still good friend is a pretty cool customer who was quite used to the privations of travel round the Indian sub-continent as well as the vagaries of the weather. When I saw the look on his face I knew we were dead. But that was not to be because after what seemed like an hour and was probably ten minutes at most we hit clear air. The rattling rivets that were still in their holes relaxed back into place, ashen faced strangers silently started at each other, the relief on their faces palpable and couples pledged to never take each other for granted ever again, ever.

That first Oranjeboom went down like altar wine when we hit the bar at the Taj Coromandel a couple of hours later. The blood pressure was back to normal after about a week.

A Bevvy in the Boulders – Part 2

Since the CB and I decided to do a reverse tree-change and move from a semi-rural acreage setting to a townhouse closer to the city one thing we have missed is the view or in our case, views. There’s the horizontal (or slightly elevated) view to the hills in the distance and the vertical view to the incomprehensible splendour of the Milky Way. We hadn’t seen the Southern Cross and its Pointers for four years because of the blocking effect of city lights but a few nights ago, there they were.

Stanthorpe only has around 5000 people and we were out of town anyway so if he’d been there, Darryl Kerrigan would have been in his element – how’s the serenity. This piece of trivia would not have registered with those of you who haven’t immersed yourselves in the Aussie cultural equivalent of the Renaissance, a movie called “The Castle”. Watch it. Here’s a taste.

And I mention the Southern Cross because it’s very much part of the Australian psyche (and flag). And it and Orion’s Belt are the only celestial constellations I can identify.

Day 2 was a wine tour – all day. Four wineries and the Queensland College of Wine Tourism for lunch. That was about 38 wines all up. For professional tasters, that’s all in a day’s work. For amateurs like us it’s a serious challenge which was approached with all of the grit and determination we could muster. There were four of us (plus the driver) on our tour, the CB and I and a honeymooning couple who spent their time on the back seat of the mini-bus while the CB and I admired the scenery.

For the pros, wine tasting is all about the five “s’s” (pronounced “esses”), as in swirl, sniff, sip, swoosh (round the mouth) and spit. For us amateurs there’s a variation on this theme that goes swirl, sniff, sip, swallow, serve (the next one). And by the end of the day you might find the real amateurs doing the sip, swirl, swallow, sip, swallow, sprint, spew.

In these wine growing and wine making areas with lots of cellar doors you’d have to assume that, especially on the weekends and in high season there will be at least a few half pissed tourists on the roads. Which could explain the signs near all of the main intersections which tell drivers to stay on the left because this is Australia. Apparently these signs are all over the country but this is the only place I’ve noticed them and also apparently it’s because of the proliferation (in non-covid times) of fruit picking backpackers. In these covid times some fruit rots on the vines because our entitled youth and unencumbered older types are too lazy to pick fruit for $25/hour. There’s a strawberry runner farm in the area which employs about 600 people at peak times but….despair.

The CB and I would have offered to help out but with my dodgy back and her bursitis ravaged shoulder the best we could do was make a financial contribution so we signed up for wine clubs and bought a car full of produce, mostly of the liquid variety. And as previously mentioned, the Ugg Boot Lady got a couple of sales (four if you count each boot). And we bought Christmas stuff (and chocolate) from the Christmas farm because it’s May already and we don’t want to leave it too late.

Back at the cabin, after a long day supporting the local vintners, it was time to relax in front of the fire and not go to the bar because it had closed at 5.00pm. Incidentally, we did attempt to grab a cleansing ale at about 4.55pm but the lady behind the bar assured me that they closed at 4.45pm. I pointed in the direction of the reception area and reminded her that there was a sign there that said it closed at 5.00pm but she assured me it said 4.45pm. It didn’t and when I went to take a picture of it the next morning for this blog, it had disappeared like so many conservative Twitter accounts.

We had plenty of wine and beer but there was a principle involved here. After dismally failing to invoke the principle it was back to the cabin and the fire. It was then that the CB and I discovered we would make useless arsonists. It only took about four goes and a box of fire starters to get a decent fire going. I should know better because fires burn oxygen and as the oxygen content in the room drops, sleep creeps up. And that was that.

A Bevvy in the Boulders – Part 1

Well the xhild (her new pronoun – no, actually it’s a typo – the “x” is next to the “c”) bride and I have finally escaped, albeit for just a few days. Our travel plans were decimated last year for obvious reasons and this year hasn’t been any better. So we loaded up the car and hit the road. Of course any excursion that involves more than one night away from home rivals D-Day for logistical complexity because you never know when you might need…… (fill in name of appropriate item or inappropriate as the case may be, a truffle trowel, for example). We did however manage to leave enough space in the car for a few cases of wine and that space was duly filled because wine tasting was the primary motivation for visiting that particular part of the world.

We stayed at a rather rustic establishment that came with cabins and its own micro-brewery just outside Stanthorpe, a pretty little town (if rather rocky – it’s in an area called the Granite Belt) in south east Queensland once famous for apples and snow. It is just about the only place in sub-tropical Queensland where it does snow occasionally.

Incidentally the little town just outside Stanthorpe called Applethorpe has a school which they have self-titled “the coolest school in Queensland”. Applethorpe has the cold and the apples covered whereas (and here’s the geologist in me making a rare appearance), Stanthorpe is named after Stannum, the Latin word for tin which was mined in the area (in the late 1800’s) before they started growing apples. And those of you who remember any chemistry will know that the chemical symbol for tin is Sn.

Now onto more frivolous musings. Oh yes, I almost forgot. Stanthorpe is now known for apples, snow and wine.

Incidentally, back on the travel thing, just to show how out of touch the CB and I are, we went to a bottle shop in Stanthorpe on the first afternoon and as we browsed we separately asked the attendant if they had any local wines and he pointed us to the section which had a large sign over it which read “Local Wines”. Now as any regular traveler will know, it’s advisable to have your metaphorical antennae up when you’re out of your homely comfort zone. You need to be able to notice stuff. However this was Stanthorpe not Mogadishu but we have been out of practice so both claim immunity from accusations of stupidity. And why were we buying wine from a bottle shop when there were dozens of cellar doors within staggering distance? It was the first afternoon prior to visiting any local wineries so we needed supplies to get us through the next few hours.

But here’s the real reason we needed to stock-up. The place where we were staying had a very nice bar which shuts at 5.00pm. Let me say that again. The bar opens at 10.00am and shuts at 5.00pm. Not 5.00am but 5.00pm. The first day, we got there with enough time to order one drink. The bar lady asked me if I wanted a 10oz beer, a 15oz or a pint. Nice lady, stupid question. If she’d offered me a bucket after a day of driving and considerable stress, I’d have taken that.

Stress, you say. Yes, something happened between arriving in Stanthorpe and getting to our accommodation, apart from the mercy stop at the bottle shop. This was something I had never done or even contemplated in my many years of existence. I bought a pair of Ugg boots. These have long been considered, along with flanno’s and mullets as integral parts of bogan culture. And I wouldn’t or hadn’t ever contemplated such a flagrant act of cultural appropriation, apart from eating Indian (and Thai, Chinese, Japanese etc) food, driving German cars, drinking ….well any nationality actually….beer (apart from non-alcoholic Iranian beer which I tried once in Iran, funnily enough, and tastes like what I would assume camel’s piss tastes like) and on and on the list goes. Having said that, the inner bogan does emerge occasionally. My wife and daughter once scolded me for wearing jeans and thongs (the ones that go on your feet not in your arse). Who knew?

So a bridge too far, or in this case more like an elephant’s foot too far, had been crossed and I had succumbed to warm feet syndrome. I have never been a fashionista and I’m as likely to follow fashion trends as I am to go bungee jumping. And by buying Ugg boots, I broke the bungee.

More to follow.

A Contract Job

It’s difficult to conceptualise this now but when Bob Hawke, Australia’s then prime minister and previously the president of the Australian Council of Trade Unions, sacked a bunch of airline pilots for striking, all hell broke loose. The pilots were members of a union and the number 1 card-carrying union member in the country told them to take a hike.

This was such a long time ago that one of the planes that was brought in to replace our grounded pilotless planes to help move people around, was from Yugoslavia. Astute observers of history will be aware that Yugoslavia doesn’t exist anymore. The Yugoslavian divorce started in 1991 and some would argue it’s still underway which doesn’t auger well for Bill and Melinda Gates who have much more treasure to divvy up than the Balkans ever had.

Our pilots’ strike was in 1989 and I remember the time vividly which is just as well because I am about to tell you a story to which the pilot’s strike was of peripheral importance and the geopolitical strife brewing in Belgrade was of no significance whatsoever.

However what I am about to relate to you has some significance to what’s happening today trade-wise but you’ll have to bear with me here because it may appear that I am drawing a very long bow. Long story short, China is busy blocking exports of various Australian products to its markets and other countries are stepping in to take up the slack. One of them is India which is taking more and more of our coal which is currently persona-non-grata in China. The Chinese also don’t want our wine (that’s a heroic sacrifice on the part of the Chinese authorities), our lobsters (ditto) and a whole range of other things, the latest of which appears to be liquified natural gas. But back to coal.

The groundwork for India’s growing imports of Australian coal was laid by a few intrepid Australian companies and a small band of marketing brothers back in the 1980’s. I was one of them. And the first foundation stone was laid in 1989. I fear the introduction to this story will be longer than the story itself but here we go.

Three companies and six coal marketers had been negotiating with the Indian Government steel authority throughout 1988 and 1989. The prize was the first long term coal contract that the Indian Government had ever signed. As it turned out they awarded five and our company got two of them. The business between India and Australia has since grown exponentially, hence the above reference to stepping in.

Now I don’t know whether it was naivety or mischievousness but our counterparts used to think they could call us over to India as if our office was across the street. Flights were few and far between back then so getting in and out at short notice was problematic at the best of times. And a visa was required.

So, it’s 8.00pm on Sunday evening, October 3rd 1989 and my wife and I are relaxing with a glass of wine (her) and a beer (me) when the phone rings. It’s my boss and he advises me he’s been talking to our agent who has been talking to our potential long term customer in India and they told our agent who told my boss who’s telling me that they want to sign the long term contracts on Tuesday October 5th. Did I mention that there was a pilot’s strike. And I didn’t have a visa. Or a signing authority for contracts the size of which I was being asked to sign. What happens next is called focussing the mind….or operating in a state of panic.

I had an Indian mate in Melbourne who was mates with the Indian consulate visa guy in Sydney (as luck would have it) so I rang him immediately and asked him for a favour – contact the consulate in Sydney, tell them what’s happening and ask them if I can drop by some time tomorrow (morning hopefully) and get my passport visa stamped. This process normally takes a week or two. I then rang our agent in New Delhi and asked him to book me a hotel room for a couple of nights. There was nothing else I could do that night so I either had eight more beers or went straight to bed – that bit I can’t remember.

First thing next morning I rang our travel agent and asked her to book me flights to New Delhi…..today. Oh and did I mention I need enough time in Sydney to go to the Indian Consulate in North Sydney to pick up a visa then get back to the airport (in south Sydney) with enough time to get an international flight. When she had stopped laughing and picked up the telephone off the floor she asked if I was aware that the pilot’s strike had somewhat restricted the availability of seats on planes. But being the professional that she was, she proceeded to get me a seat facing the side of a plane rather than the front. It was on an army C130 Hercules from Brisbane to Sydney. Sydney to Bangkok/Singapore/Hong Kong and Bangkok/Singapore/Hong/Kong to New Delhi were works in progress.

On arriving at the airport I rang my boss (no mobile phones back then kids) and asked him to organise a signing authority and to fax it (no email either) to our agent’s office in New Delhi and then rang my mate in Melbourne regarding my visa. He said it was being arranged. I got on the C130 and headed off to Sydney, not knowing if this adventure was going to stop there.

At Sydney airport I was advised that our travel agent had me on a flight to Bangkok (but Bangkok/New Delhi was still up in the air – yuk yuk) so I rushed off to the Indian Consulate, got my visa, rushed back to the airport in time to get on the plane and slump down in my (business class) seat with a glass of champagne and relax because there was nothing else I could do until Bangkok.

Eight hours later the nice lady at the transit desk in Bangkok airport advised that I had a booking on the next Thai International flight to New Delhi, in a couple of hours…..first class – love that travel agent. It had all come together in less than 24 hours.

What happened next was classic India. After moving heaven and earth and arriving in New Delhi in the early hours of Tuesday morning my agent and I fronted at the steel company office at 9.00am and were told……they weren’t ready for us and could we come back tomorrow. Now India can be a frustrating place at the best of times but in this case the prize was beyond valuable so we bit our respective lips and retired to the hotel to wait. Wednesday morning – same. Thursday morning – same. Friday morning they were ready to sign. But there was another twist and it didn’t involve travel because I had a bit of spare time to organise flights out and had taken the precaution of booking out on Friday evening, to be safe.

The other company marketing managers and their agents and me and mine were all pacing in the waiting room in which we had all spent far too much of our lives up to that point. After the contracts had been typed (yes typed) then checked and amended where necessary we would be asked in one by one to sign. After metaphorically drawing the short straw, my two contracts were numbers four and five in the queue. By mid-afternoon we were just starting on four. By about 6.00pm we were ready to start five when the steel company’s senior manager asked me if we could come back on Monday to do the last one.

Through gritted teeth I advised that in the circumstances I would prefer to not spend one minute more in that office than I had to. I may have said something a little more polite but the message was the same nonetheless. So at my insistence the typists and my counterparts soldiered on and we finished about 10.00pm on Friday night. Then the power failed so the lifts were out and we had to walk down 13 flights of stairs but I didn’t care as I had two contracts worth upwards of A$100million in my bag.

I don’t remember anything about the flights home but my log (which I kept for all of my business trips) tells me I came back first class on KLM to Singapore and on Qantas to Brisbane. I can’t remember if I was authorised to fly at the pointy end back than but that time, I didn’t care.